Last night before going to sleep, I was a bit worried about how my feet would feel in the morning after walking so many kilometres. Would they go on strike or be excited for more steps? When I woke up and stood up, my feet felt brand new. No pain, no blisters. Perfect, ready for new victories. But since it’s never wise to tempt fate, I decided we’d just take a short walk to the little village of Guemes, out in the countryside. Compared to yesterday’s challenge, this was like a stroll through the park.
On the way, the boys reminded me that we never had our well-deserved beer yesterday because we were too tired and arrived late. So they invited me for a drink, and we ended up having two, since we were really happy with our teamwork. We raised our glasses and wished for more days like that. As I was putting my backpack back on, the bar owner came running after me and handed me a little gift – a badge from the town and a lovely daisy. A beautiful gesture. I gave her a hug, a kiss on the cheek and waved goodbye with a big smile. Oh, these Spaniards, you’ve just got to love them.
We were first to arrive at our destination again, even with the beer break. We got there around one in the afternoon. Brko had his usual job: washing our clothes and hanging them to dry. This hostel is in a perfect location, at the right place at the right time. Pretty much every hiker on the Northern Way makes the trip to this most famous albergue, run by Catholic priest Ernesto. Every guide and app for the Camino del Norte recommends it. And once you’re there, it’s clear why. You can feel the love for Guemes and the man behind it. This man devotes his life to welcoming hikers at his beautiful albergue La Cabaña del Abuelo Peuto. He’s supported by volunteers from around the world. When I arrived, I was greeted with a smile, a glass of water and a cookie. Almost too sweet to be true. After registering, an older man led me to the room I’d be sleeping in. Eight beds, four sets of bunks. He showed me the bathroom and the laundry room. The place also has a huge library and a garden to relax in. It’s a big, well-kept, cozy estate that instantly makes you feel at home. The space breathes.
The volunteers here are incredibly well-organized. Everything runs smoothly. Since we arrived around lunchtime, a big meal was already waiting for us. Usually in donation-based albergues, hikers help with cooking, setting the table and cleaning up. But since this one hosts over seventy-seven hikers, the volunteers handle it all to avoid chaos. That way everything stays in sync, and the hikers can really rest, chat, or just enjoy some quiet. This was hands down the best rest of my whole Camino. This albergue gets five stars at the entrance. No question about it.
After lunch, we had time for a long rest. Later, Father Ernesto invited us into his large “work” room, where he gives daily talks about the Camino and the albergue. The round room was full of photos from the Camino and its hikers. The floor was covered in rugs so you could sit comfortably, with a bench lined with cushions around the wall. He gave a wonderful speech, and his energy filled the room. We all listened carefully and responded when he asked questions.
He told us a hundred-year-old story about his family. Since there was no TV or condoms back then, his grandparents had fifteen children. His mother was the youngest. She had five kids – four daughters and Ernesto, who is also the youngest and now seventy-five years old. He knew how to make us laugh and relax. He spoke in Spanish and had a translator next to him, a cheerful woman who volunteers here. He explained that the Camino has changed with technology, and not for the better. People forget how to write words by hand. I looked around the room and saw pure focus on everyone’s faces. In many eyes, I saw tears. Ernesto has this gift. He touches people’s hearts with his inspiring story and the love he gives. Like Santa Claus from Spain, I’d say.
In donation-based hostels, the unspoken rule is to leave ten euros in the box. That’s considered a fair amount, but I think we all left at least twenty. I haven’t eaten better food at any other hostel on the Camino. Honestly, many restaurants could learn a thing or two here.
A big old bell hanging on a pole rings out to call you to dinner. I’ve always dreamed of that. While others were enjoying dessert, I wandered around the property. It was clear that every euro they receive is reinvested into the place. Everything was in its right place, clean and tidy. Santa Claus brings you gifts at home. On the Camino, Santa Claus is the gift. And so is this albergue.
He gave us one last piece of advice – that the next day, we should put our phones in our pockets and take the route along the cliffs. Follow your heart, not the arrows or the apps.
