Finally a proper night's sleep, like a human being! Horizontal mode extended all the way to 10:30. My alarm that morning? A full bladder, knocking with such urgency it might as well have decided to drown out every other alarm in existence. When I looked in the mirror, I figured I must've fought a duel with an allergy overnight — and clearly lost. My face was so swollen I could barely open my eyes enough to find the toilet seat. I seriously considered filing a complaint about the mirror, because whatever I saw in it definitely wasn't me.
But on the toilet — finally! A waterfall of liberation! I felt like a parent congratulating their kid on the first successful potty use. So proud of myself. As a reward I treated myself to a long coffee at the café right by the accommodation. No rush anywhere today. The "outrun the sun" discipline was on holiday.
Over coffee I got educated by my constant companion — ChatGPT — on how the body works on the Camino. He advised healthy, salty snacks. I asked if dry salami counts. He confirmed. Finally! I can chew my favourite drug guilt-free. Salty food is supposedly dehydrating, but the body on the Camino apparently runs on its own rules — and salt is the queen of rehydration. Dry salami is to me what Nutella is to everyone else: I sneak it at night, just so I can brag later about how long it lasted.
Since dried apricots mean nothing to my taste buds except a shrug (even though they've got the potassium I apparently need), I moved dried fruit to the "only if there's truly no other option" list. ChatGPT also recommended water with a pinch of salt. Sure. Take a sip and pretend you're at the beach... with sand in your mouth. Fine, for the sake of health we'll grit our teeth.
The day was dedicated to regeneration: eating, sleeping, stretching, hydrating. Surprisingly it flew by fast, even though I didn't do anything worth mentioning — other than being the undisputed queen of rest in this tiny village.
In the evening I went to bed early. A forecasted 41 degrees for the next day pushed the alarm back to 4:30. I had a few options on the table: 11, 23, 34, or 60 kilometres. Without thinking twice I picked 34 — that's my sweet spot. Of course, come morning, I did not want to get up. Standard. Gave myself a symbolic kick in the butt and went to wash my sleepy face.
Smart as I am, the night before I'd stashed three electrolyte bottles in the freezer — cold water for the trail is my new religion. After a banana (so my stomach can survive the ibuprofen), a smear of cream, and some mental prep, I hit the road. This time — no pain! A miracle!
The first 10–15 km I walked, as usual, along the road. I'll take asphalt and silence over animals in the forest any day. It's not pleasant spotting two glowing little eyes staring at you in the dark. No thanks. I don't care whether you're a rabbit or a wolf. Asphalt, please.
I arrived in the first town. Sunday, so — coffee illusions. To make it more fun, they were also having a fiesta. I heard it 7 km out. First thought: "Oh great, a morning party!" First actual note of the music: "Oh no, a morning crime against eardrums." I kept walking.
Days on the Camino blur fast into one big "I've been here before, I'll be there again." I walked through two towns without finding a single open café. My bladder became my motivator again, but good spirits carried me forward — today was a pain-free day, and that counts for more than coffee, beer, and shade combined.
I ran into a pair of cyclists — all smiles, waving and laughing at me as I danced down the middle of the road to a Queen song. English again. I'll admit — I was happy. Just me, the Camino, and the music. This is how I walked the Camino del Norte too — that's the kind of walking that gives me meaning. Walking, not running away. Dancing, not suffering. Camino, not occupational therapy.
I reached my destination at noon. Accommodation right in the centre, shop open — on a Sunday! Round of applause! First I checked what the place offered — no fan, but hey, for €6? You can't expect a Swiss wellness resort. Main thing is there's a bed. And peace. Hoping some sleep comes with it too.
Today I walked 34.32 km and gained 327 metres of elevation.
Total so far: 306.97 km and 3,327 metres of elevation.
Honestly? I'm not satisfied. But I'm grateful. My leg lets me keep going. And sometimes it's the small wins that keep you moving forward.
