The day started quite early, considering I had to do 4 extra kilometres because of the hostel. The forecast predicted the kind of weather no hiker here wants – rain. There’s the nice kind of rain, like a drizzle, and then there’s the awful kind – a downpour with wind. And since I was clearly born under a lucky star, I got the latter. After those extra 4 kilometres, the trail started climbing again. I began acting like a kid who doesn’t want to do something. But according to my plans, I had to suck it up and push forward. Normally, rain here is like a first-time hook-up – you know it won’t last long. But not today. It was pouring, and I was suffering – both from the weather and the climb.
This was also the day I had to pass through a big city again – Gijón. I got lost multiple times, along with my nerves. When I finally made it out of the city, I felt some relief, but the app showed another climb was coming. Time to say a prayer before I got crucified again. I hadn’t seen a single soul all day. It was just me and the cross on my back. Since my first Camino, I’ve always said it’s the safest kind of holiday, nothing to worry about. But that day, for the first time, I feared for my life. My imagination might go wild sometimes, but nothing compares to when reality hits.
This year I’ve mostly been hiking alone, headphones in – meaning I’m fully cut off from my surroundings, lost in my own world. When I finally conquered the hill in rain and wind, I checked the app to see how far the next bar was so I could warm up. Ten kilometres. I pulled my cap low and kept going. I was walking through a beautiful eucalyptus forest that smelled amazing. I walk fast, but not so fast that I don’t notice what’s happening around me.
So, imagine this: I’m alone, and out of nowhere, I feel a hand on my ass – and a second later, one on my neck. Something you just don’t expect. I turned around and saw a man with no pants. He was pulling on my backpack and with the other hand... well, you can imagine. It was the worst moment of my life. A fight for survival.
I was so terrified but managed to kick the bastard in the stomach – hard enough to make him fall. He was wearing a grey shirt, black sweatpants, and sandals. My heart must’ve been pounding at 220 bpm. I ran as fast as I could. Exhausted from the climb and rain, I looked for somewhere to hide, but the forest was too thick. I slipped and hurt my hand while running but eventually found a hollow where I could blend in and hide. There I was – hidden deep in the forest, pouring rain, terrified. A moment where all you want is your mum, but you don’t call because she can’t help, she’d just worry.
So, I stayed hidden for 30 minutes and moved my ID, bank card, and cash into my shoes – they wouldn’t think to look there. I shoved my phone down the back of my bra. If it was only a robbery, I was making it difficult. But my mind was already thinking of rape... and murder. I was scared for my life. Yes, I only saw one guy – but there could have been more. Probably bored, high, and indifferent to my fear. They just wanted to "play." The kind of fear I felt, I’ll never forget.
They were probably just local idiots trying to mess with hikers. I ran downhill gripping my pole like a weapon, crying, fighting to survive, and unable to get the image of that man out of my head. For the full 10 kilometres, I checked over my shoulder every 10 seconds. Every sound triggered a panic response. The moment I felt his hand on me; I took my headphones out – and didn’t put them back in. I made it out of that forest neither raped nor robbed – if you can call that a win. But my body trembled all the way to the hostel. I’ve already feared people this year but today broke me.
I cried the whole way to the hostel – because it could’ve ended much worse. I don’t need comforting words right now. I’ll process it myself. But first I need to get through the rage – the kind where you picture smashing an idiot like that with a baseball bat.
And this is exactly why I need the Berliner.
Fuck that kind of “joke.” It’s not funny.
I just hope I can erase that image in a few days. For many, something like this would leave trauma for a lifetime.
