When my dear French “mum” arrived at the hostel yesterday, of course she wasn’t happy because there was no fridge. I wasn’t exactly thrilled either, but hey – the Camino isn’t a hotel chain. I told her there was a bar just around the corner where we could eat, and it happened to belong to the hostel owner. The man basically rules this village – all he’s missing is a crown and a red carpet. The bar is only open in August, so we were lucky to catch it now.
In front of it was a small park and a football pitch where the boys played until 3 p.m., then vanished like foam on beer. When we reached the counter, I asked “mum” to let the barman bring me my beer first, and then she could take her 20 minutes for discussion and questions. We know each other well enough by now – I’m made for simplicity.
The barman was friendly and smiling, and even spoke English – meaning I didn’t have to resort to charades. We ordered pasta salad, two mini sandwiches each, and spicy sausage with bread. The lunch was delicious… or maybe we were just so hungry that even stale bread would’ve tasted good.
We ate in the park, at the only table in the village, next to the fountain. Since it was our last meal together, we treated ourselves to a bit of alcohol. When it kicked in, I asked her if she wanted to swim in the fountain. Knowing she liked swimming, I expected a “oui,” but got only a strange look. I shrugged and headed for the fountain. It was wonderfully refreshing! It didn’t take long before she joined me – our improvised beer spa. Lots of laughter, dunking our heads, and the feeling that we’d wandered into some mineral water commercial.
Since she’d been complaining all day that everything hurt, I promised her a massage. Why not – I had too much energy anyway, and there was nothing else to do. And honestly, I wanted her to walk pain-free on her last day to Zamora. How do you silence a Frenchwoman? With a good massage! She’d earned it after all the kilometres from Seville to Zamora.
After the massage, God surprised us with a gift – rain. First we stared at the sky like two hens, not believing something could actually fall from it, and then we simply enjoyed the change.
My plan was to start at 5:00 the next day, but with the weather change I moved the alarm to 6:00. Natalija asked if she could join me to Zamora. Of course, I said – a romantic joint arrival into the city.
The night was wonderful – no plastic sheets, no heat attacks, I slept like a baby (without the side effects). The bed was so comfortable that I almost didn’t want to get up in the morning. One of the best nights on the Camino.
The walk to Zamora went quickly, even on the stony path. Natalija had knee trouble and told me to go ahead on the asphalt. Not for our last walk together – we’d finish it side by side. When we reached the city, I hugged her and congratulated her on the journey. It’s completely different when you reach the goal with someone who’s walked and suffered alongside you.
Her smile as she stepped into the city was priceless. Then we went for our last breakfast together – not a single “I hate” was spoken. Everything was suddenly beautiful. Before I headed for Montemarta, I asked for her address so I could send her a postcard – she loves them as much as I do. The only good thing in the mailbox, because bills and ads… well, you know.
I hugged her goodbye, told her I’d never forget her, and thanked her for the company – even if she could get on my nerves. And off I went… only to immediately get lost.
The weather was on my side – cloudy, perfect poetry for walking. Music in my ears, and the kilometres flew by. When I checked my watch, it was 13:35, and I was still 2 km from the shop that closed at 14:00. Another adrenaline rush – I hadn’t eaten all day! If I didn’t make it, I’d be starving until 6 p.m. I made it. Small victories count.
The hostel looked like a horror movie set from the outside, but inside it had a warm, homely feel. The only downside – plastic sheets again. So, another night in a sweat sauna. At least there’s a couch… I think I’ll park myself there.
Today I walked 37.69 km and climbed 207 metres. Tomorrow I hope my legs will let me push past 40 km.
