The longer I rested, the lazier I became, and so I really didn’t feel like getting back on the road, even though I’d gone to bed early. But I’d already wasted too many days on fun and rest, so it was time to put my shoes back on and get going again – this time toward Porto, in the opposite direction, which is a first for me. So the cathedral in Santiago was my starting point, not the finish line. On the way there, I stopped at the same café where I’d landed when I arrived in Santiago. The same taxi driver was there, drinking his morning coffee. We smiled at each other – both surprised to bump into one another again. I joined him for a moment, we exchanged a few words, then each went on our way. A lovely start to the day.
I left Google Maps alone that day. I didn’t need the stress of accidentally ending up on another busy road – I’d had enough of that on this trip. In the morning, I still had my phone in hand so I wouldn’t get lost, but later on I could finally put it away and just follow the other hikers on the Portuguese route. This path isn’t particularly hard, but with my left foot acting up, it’ll probably be the toughest route for me. Hiking with healthy feet is one thing. A whole different story when they’re not. That mangled blister wasn’t even the worst part – what really got me was the toenail that tore off at the root. I felt it every time I stepped down. If the pain were just a notch lower, it’d be perfect. But perfection doesn’t exist, so I’ll have to learn to walk with it. Still, it’s nothing compared to torn ligaments.
The day was cloudy, which made walking much easier. I was mostly going downhill that first day, and I enjoyed watching others struggle uphill. I thought to myself, “If only you knew what the Camino del Norte is like.” These little hills are nothing in comparison, yet people had their feet taped up and walked like Herr Flick. Not that I was doing much better. The pain had wrecked me by the end of the day. You know it’ll feel better after a shower, but when you’ve got no energy or willpower, it’s hard. Still, you go – because you have to.
Later, I went to the store and made myself the best toasted sandwiches. I wasn’t capable of anything more. I got lost again on the way, because I was annoyed at having to keep my phone out and checking directions. And just like that, I ended up on a busy road again. But the Almighty came through and showed me a forest path, and I got back onto the Camino route – with some bonus kilometres, which is exactly what I need with this left foot. The Berliner complained that he was bored. I told him it’s easy to lie around in my head and just comment – I could hand him my current pain and then see if he’s still bored.
I arrived at the hostel pretty early, so Saudi kept me company. I got a full education on Saudi Arabia – basically the exact opposite of me. A whole lot of nothing and a load of restrictions that would probably land me in jail in no time. I had a blast learning about their culture. That’s the kind of contrast that pulls you in 😂 Right now it’s 42 degrees over there, and apparently they’re “a bit cold.” I told him now I understand why they pray five times a day – I’d be on my knees 24/7 praying for cold.
I went to bed early so my foot could get some real rest. There are still plenty of kilometres ahead, and this year walking means more to me than partying. I didn’t meet a single person walking in my direction that day – everyone was headed toward Santiago. I don’t even feel like being social this year. I’ve got plenty of company in my own head. But there is one upside to walking in the opposite direction – you see a lot of gorgeous guys, which is a balm for my eyes. And if I manage to keep my mouth shut, my face will probably say enough.
