My day started early—I wanted to cover most of the 37 km while it was still cool and shady. Everything is easier when the oven isn’t cranked to max, sunwise. Unfortunately, no coffee to kick things off since the café next to our accommodation didn’t open until 8:00. So, I walked 15 km on an empty stomach and caffeine-free. But I did get another stunning show from the sunrise, starring shades of orange and pink. If only I could’ve paused, it at its peak. These sunrises never disappoint—they steal your breath and drop your jaw to the ground. Words don’t do them justice.
Today marked the farewell to climbs. From here on, it’s all flat. Thanks to yesterday’s meal—finger-lickin’ good grilled pork ribs, perfectly salted fries, and mixed salad—I felt like an Olympian and decided to add another 2 km to the day. The trail split, offering a shorter and longer option, and well… we all know which path the idiot takes.
Honestly, I’ve had enough of the short 25 km stages. I didn’t come here to chill and lounge in cafés. I came for full-day walking with short breaks for coffee and a cigarette. I don’t eat lunch on the trail—it slows me down and makes me lazy. When I do finish for the day, I’m often not even hungry because it’s just too damn hot to fill my stomach. An ice-cold Coke during the day? Heaven. Sweet and cold—exactly what my body needs. That and a sandwich is pretty much my fuel for the day.
This change in diet has, of course, knocked my digestion into a coma. Not even ridiculously sweet coffee can wake it up. But never mind. What matters is that tonight Gro and I are staying in a surprisingly modern albergue for just €14. So far, my fastest shower on this Camino was 10 seconds. Tonight? It felt like 30 minutes—pure luxury. The routine now is that Gro and I meet up for a beer at the end of the day, recap the whole thing drenched in sarcasm, and then call at least five places trying to book the next night’s bed. The closer we get to the end, the better we’re getting at it.
