Once again I didn’t manage to land on a short walking day. I walked through village after village, names forgotten of course. All I know is I’m heading to Santiago. The morning trail led me through chestnut and oak woods wrapped in beautiful mist. I actually enjoyed it, knowing a full-on sauna would hit later.
Today I reached the first proper city on this route, Lugo. You start to see houses and apartment blocks already in the outskirts. I arrived quite early, so the streets were still quiet, making it easier to spot the yellow arrows leading you out of town. From Lugo to Santiago it’s just 100 km. And from here on out the trail turns into an anthill. Compostela is like a diploma you get if you walk the last 100 kilometers to Santiago. It’s a complete nightmare for hikers who’ve walked the entire route. You’re not on the same mental plane with these people. Because of them you might not find a place to sleep. They brag about walking 100 km in seven days without a backpack. Meanwhile, you’re wrecked from hundreds of kilometers with everything you own strapped to your back and you’re the one who ends up without a bed. Anyway, my way out of Lugo was dull, just asphalt, no shade. After 13 km it finally turned into a pleasant forest path. At least that part saved the day.
There were plenty of new faces on the trail. San Roman was the place where I ended my walk for the day and realised there’s absolutely nothing you can do here. Just one tiny bar that’s also a survival-mode grocery store. Everything else is forest. So Gro and I decided to walk to the bar to grab food for tomorrow and something for dinner. When we got there, they told us we could have a sandwich, but they were out of bread. A new delivery was supposed to arrive at 7 p.m. so there was nothing else to do but wait. Of course, it was only 5 p.m. The little store had only candy. And more candy. Oh, and cans of beans. I really don’t know what I’m supposed to do with a can of beans when I don’t even have a can opener.We sat there with non-alcoholic beer waiting for the hour hand to strike seven, then waited again until 7:30 because Spanish speed equals dead sloth pace. Still no bread. Eventually the bar owner showed up and told us there’d be no bread today. WONDERFUL. Everything went black. Same for Gro. So we bought candy. I managed to pick something that tasted like sunscreen. Gro got sugar-free sweets. WTF. So we waddled back to the hostel. Meanwhile a bunch of young hikers had arrived, all ready to party. Which means falling asleep would be a challenge.
Once we finally climbed into bed, mine being the top bunk, an older lady came up to me and started whining about being afraid of getting COVID and asked if I could wear a mask. Tired and hungry as I was, she got a full dose of sarcasm and I told her to go back home if she’s afraid of getting COVID.
I have absolutely no tolerance for people who whine. FUCK OFF HOME.
