Why is Camino Frances so popular? Because you can do it snaillike with plenty of rest. No lickety-splitting, no racing, not fearful watch-gazing to see if there’s enough time left for you to catch a free bed in the next albergo. The network of lodging houses is growing with each day. Each village by the Path had at least one albergo, which means you don’t have to call in the morning and book the place.
For me, it’s a special one. Although, I can’t say that for the other two Caminos. Constant cramp due to the lack of accommodation. It was literally a race and it makes you wonder if something fried your brain to make you decide for that kind of vacation. I won’t say it was fun but sleeping in such albergos was quite an unique experience.
Beside the albergos ran by the Church, the municipalities or by societies, there’s a buttload of private accommodations. They range from sleep-only places to those with their own kitchen, washing machine, dryer and wi-fi. Non-private less-fancy places have a better energy. Keepers are usually ex-hikers who are more committed to their guests. They care about the Path and are full of interesting stories. There’s a certain charm, a harmony.
You find plenty of such places on the French Path, while the other two bet on more modern establishments that accommodate all requirements about digs and equipment. The way those people care about their business, namely how they let you wait and open their door between 1 and 3 PM only, tells you a lot. Naturally, you’re there at 11 AM after a furious race and find locked door. All you can do then is use your backpack as a mark for the waiting spot and lie down. It’s not like you’d prefer a bed, a hot’n’cold shower, food and sleep.
Ex-hiker keepers wouldn’t let that happen. They know how important resting is. And there’s a difference in prices, too. The French Path albergos charge you between a donation and 5 euros, while the other two want between 10 and 15 euros. And let me tell you, 40 days of those prices really take their toll. Where there’s no reservations, it’s all about coming first. In that case, it’s much better if you’re alone, because it makes bed hunting easier.
If there are no vacancies, you pick the next town. Six or ten kilometers ain’t a thing, but with 30 kilometers already behind you, that’s a different tale. And get this: most of the keepers on the Portuguese and Northern Path have no idea what donations are. 6 euros, if you ask them. You always get a dinner and a breakfast in real donation-based establishments and when it’s time to go, you can leave as much dineros as you like – or you don’t. But you always do.
Sleeping on bunk beds. I’m on level E in climbing now according to Google. I don’t know why, but guys always wanted to sleep on the lower bunk. Camilla and I called them pussies. Climbing those beds is a special kind of art and most of them aren’t fixed, so they swing like hell. When the ruckus wakes you up you think it’s an earthquake and then realize it’s just a pair of legs swinging from the upper bed, ready to take a hike to the toilet and back. No peace whatsoever. And if the bed is somehow fixed, the covers are louder than God’s revolver, so you better sleep like a cadaver or you’ll wake up for every fucking turn.
Showers range from “Imma throw up” to “mujer contenta”, which makes the love for your home shower so much greater. Another reason I go on Camino is making me value things more and not take them for granted. Kitchens, by the way, are also very welcome, especially for us cooking types.
The Path is designed to go pass albergos and you cannot miss them since they practically whore out to hikers. Two albergos will always remain my favorite, though. No, not the church. I’m talking about the one with a hundred beds by the French Path, and the one with 70 by the Northern Path. The difference being the first one had 100 beds in one single room full of hikers. It’s a loud orchestra making commotion right after 10 PM just waiting to happen. I was not disappointed. You probably experience something like that only once in your life time. Grateful. Ear plugs are useless, though.