Every hiker gets a “hiker’s passport” where they collect stamps from every place they visit. They’re a sort of evidence we’re dealing with a hiker or a cyclist. It’s a passport that opens the doors of pilgrim-exclusive albergos. It’s also the evidence that gets you a diploma in Santiago.
Everyone gets a diploma if they walk at least 100 kilometres, and it doesn’t matter where you start. It’s a daily game of collecting stamps from albergos, churches, monasteries, and bars. Theoretically you only need two stamps per day. You can join the Path on your own, in company, or with an organized group. The Path passes shops, bars, ATMs, pharmacies, etc., so the hiker doesn’t have to walk extra miles.
But that’s cities, not the villages, which are numerous. Shops and bars open at nine o’clock, and if you’re lucky, you’ll find a bar open at six. Rare breed, but it happens. You have to stock your food for a day. Your body can manage without food for a few days, but in that heat, you’ll only last a few hours without water.
Water is everywhere, though: there are fountains on every corner, but it’s a pretty good idea to carry an extra litre in your backpack. A paperback guide is also handy, since all the important information about the stages are there, all the route descriptions, attractions and culturally/historically important stuff. There are also paid apps which cost about 6 euros. I prefer a papery thing since it’s easier to read compared to phones. And I love the sensation of turning a page.
There are yellow road signs, but use Google Maps just in case. It saved my ass a couple of times. It found a shortcut that cut my trip short for almost an hour. It was supposed to be a walking path, but it was next to a highway. We prayed, and it was too much even for me. Simone almost tore my head off that day. Yeah, it was my idea to find a shortcut due to his hurting leg. One hour less! It was a 10-kilometer attempt at mass suicide. Livin’ on the edge. A surge of adrenaline to make it more fun. Google Maps FTW!
It is the safest and the most bonkers route possible. I met people that were only 18 years old. You won’t get hurt if you’re careful and don’t have negative thoughts. Negative attracts negative. No one steals, either. Well, you don’t have to tease them, leaving your personal items, documents, credit cards or money in the middle of a bar or albergo. Phones were left everywhere, charging relentlessly. You could easily leave it 30 meters away without worrying.
And nobody will steal your backpack. The last thing you want is extra weight. Extra stinky weight. Villages are mostly full of old people and they don’t go about their days thinking how to fuck with your vacation.
You’ll spend around 900 euros for 30 days of the French Path, while the Northern and the Portuguese Path will cost you around 1,500 euros. The Northern one cost me that much, plus Finisterra twice for 40 days of vacation. I didn’t hold back.
Forget comfort, though. You’re not there for comfort. Trust people, relax, enjoy and express yourself. Be an environmentalist, too. Don’t make your garbage become road signs. Flowers, animals and people live there. They welcomed you with open hands and a smile. Cherish that. It all begins with you.